The main blog on DOUBLE KNIT GRAFTED BUTTONHOLES has a chart for BOTTOM-UP buttonholes on the LEFT ("men's") side. That chart also works for making TOP-DOWN buttonholes on the RIGHT ("women's") side.
Below is the companion chart for BOTTOM-UP buttonholes on the RIGHT ("women's") side. This chart also works for making TOP-DOWN buttonholes on the LEFT ("men's") side.
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BOTTOM-UP 25-stitch swatch, buttonholes on RIGHT (“women’s”) side. This same chart makes buttonholes on the LEFT (“men’s”) side when worked TOP DOWN |
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s t e p |
Take what action? |
What does this stitch do? |
# of sts |
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1 |
Knit 5 sts |
“body sts” |
5 |
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—These stitches are meant to represent the garment body, so on your swatch, increase or decrease st count for this portion as preferred. —By casting on substantially more than 5 “body stitches”, this buttonhole swatch does double duty as a gauge swatch for the project. —With fewer or more cast on, the stitch count is no longer accurate in steps 2 and 8. |
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2 |
Purl 1 st |
this is the “purl-border-column.” |
6 |
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On the swatch, this is column 6 on the front fabric face (knit side) and column 20 on the reverse (purl side) |
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Geek note: This column is the bridge between the buttonhole band and the body stitches. If adaping a sweater pattern to have this kind of double knit grafted buttonhole band, ignore step 1 and instead start this substitute buttonhole band with this step. |
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3 |
Knit 1 st |
plain stitch after purl border column |
7 |
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4 |
Hold a length of polyester sewing thread in color A together with the yarn. Knit the next stitch with both yarn and thread |
helper st before buttonhole blank |
8 |
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Leave 3-inch tails on the thread |
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5 |
for the next 5 sts, knit with thread only |
buttonhole blank |
13 |
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The yarn stranded behind the thread buttonhole blank must make a loop of about 8 inches. This loop will be cut in half & used to tidy the edges, so each half must be long enough to thread on the tapestry needle and work a duplicate stitch. |
yarn loop which become “side yarns” |
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6 |
knit 1 st with both yarn and thread |
helper st after buttonhole blank |
14 |
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7 |
Drop thread and knit 1 st |
plain st before fold |
15 |
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8 |
Purl 1 stitch in yarn only |
this is the fold line for the buttonhole band. |
16 |
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This is column 16 on the front fabric face (knit side) and column 9 on the reverse (purl side) |
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9 |
Knit 1 st |
plain st after fold |
17 |
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10 |
Forr the following stitch, knit with yarn and thread together |
helper st before buttonhole blank |
18 |
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Again, leave 3-inch tails on the thread |
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The yarn straded behind the thread buttonhole blank must make a loop of about 8 inches |
yarn loop which, when cut, becomes “side yarns” |
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11 |
for the next 5 sts, knit with thread only |
buttonhole blank |
23 |
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12 |
Hold a length of polyester sewing thread in color B together with the yarn. Knit the next stitch with both yarn and thread |
helper st after buttonhole blank |
24 |
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Leave a 3-inch tails on thread |
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13 |
Knit 1 st |
fabric edge |
25 |
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14 |
At row-end, tie the thread ends together, each color in a loop with itself |
“thread loops” |
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15 |
Do not cut the yarn loops yet |
yarn loops will become “side yarns” |
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16 |
Work several additional rows in stockinette, BUT keep the purl-border-column and the fold line column knit stitches on the back, and purl stitches on the front (see steps 2 and 8) … OR follow geek note, below |
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Geek note: For tighter, better-looking purl columns, work this first row as directed to set the pattern. Then, on rows 2 through to end, instead of purling these columns as-you-go, actually knit the purl-border-column and the fold line as simple stockinette fabric, along with the rest of each row. Afterwards, and before working the buttonholes,“convert” these to purl columns by dropping down and latching up as knit stitches on a purl background. Tidier and easier to knit. |
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17 |
For a single buttonhole-blank swatch, bind off. For additional blanks, repeat from step 1. On my multiple-blank samples, the rows are approx ten rows apart. |
bind off / repetition |
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